You can also lock bicycles to the rack using a Yakima Cable Lock not included The Yakima LockUp is optional not included simultaneously locks the HookUp to the hitch and the bicycles to the bike rack. Although the front plates and rear attachment were solid, the bike in the wheel tray leans very easily. On the plus side Yakima has fully refunded me and is working to replace some of my bike. AnkleBiter Deuce is a great rack, once you get past installation. The cast wheel tray failed catastrophically on the hwy 75mph. Pivot rear wheel mount is a snap to setup.
Have loaded about 15 different bikes, ranging from high end road bikes to K-Mart Dual Suspension Specials. I've been a big Yakima fan for over 15 years. I have a thule roof rack on my rav, and love it, now I am thinking about the thule crossbars for the 4runner. But then, I have to pedal myself up hills since I don't have a personal valet following me around. Yakima, really, is it that difficult to make the screw 1 cm longer so its compatible with the mount you recommend for this product? Consider this: the force applied by the sway of a 25lb bike is but a fraction of the force I apply with every stroke when I get out of the saddle to climb a hill. I found the directions confusing and generally unhelpful.
I tried an expendable old 28lb bike first, no amount of adjustment of the Ankle Biter could solve the leaning problem. I do like the idea of being able to tilt the Sportworks down to be able to open the rear hatch. In fact, the wheel tray itself isn't even true. Unfortunately, you need to have one hand at least on the 'anklebiter', another on the crank and a third to hold the bike upright. Padded jaws grasp crank arm strongest part of the bike , never touching bike's paint or cables; 2 ratcheting straps hold wheels in full-length tray. The back attachment is even worse. Eye-level adjustment and reversible locking lever make it the easiest upright bike mount to load and unload from either side of your car.
Hopefully, your bike didn't move it's position while doing all of this. Everyone says this is good for full suspension bikes, but as with any roof rack, I would not enjoy heaving a 45 lb monster on the roof. This makes the rack very stable and strong with absolutely no torsional flex. It has a few scratches from being used. This helped but did not solve the flex problem.
And the part I was worried about fitting is the piece that goes into the hitch receiver. I would love to see Yakima put their industrial design minds together and come up with a great and easy release system. In the front, the bolt head sits inside a cutout keeping it from turning as the wing nuts are tightened. I did occasionally notice some shifting of the clamping point along the crankarm after driving. The rack closes around the anklebiter 'arm' with a clam-like assembly. It was much easier to use if a second person could hold the bike while you futzed with the clamp.
From searching the past threads about bike racks it sounds like everyone that has a Sportworks really likes it, but I was wondering if anyone has any experience with the Yakima Hookup? Quote: Originally posted by N8G According to Yakima's website they have a bike rack that looks almost identical to the Sportworks bike rack. I was afraid that too many bumps or highway speeds would risk twisting damage to the bike. I have a Ford Focus wagon and it works very well. Great product because of Yakima's name and reliability. Anyway, use a C-clamp to tighten the clam mouth, then insert screws and tighten. I notice some people complained they had issues with thier bottom brackets.
For example, bolts are barely long enough, making the wing nuts difficult to tighten. The result is that I paid good money to decorate a landfill. Everytime you think you've seen the worse engineering design ever, another group of engineers proves you wrong. The one reason I chose the Sportworks is that it can tilt down with the bikes mounted so that you can open the hatch and access the back without removing the bikes as far as I know, the Yak doesn't have this feature. Doing that, however, means that one of them has to be forced, with every revolution, under the place where the tray attaches to the ankle biter body.
He got the mounts recommended by Yakima for his rack. If you lock the front wheel just right, there is no way of separating the bike from the rack without cutting the u-lock. Cast wheel tray supports even the heaviest downhill mountain bikes or free-ride bicycles. Tightening the wing nut is a chore, there is no way to stop the bolt from turning without grasping the body of the bolt with a pair of plyers. Of course, the screw is too friggin short to do this, and all the squeezing, pushing, and turning in the world will only increase your blood pressure and the artistry of your cursing.
Do both or either have locking cores to lock the rack to the hitch, and then how do you lock the bike to the rack? That's exactly the one I like the most - Yakima Hookup. Just be careful at the Starbucks drive thru. I do personally like Yakima better then Thule due to its design. I'd look elsewhere if started developing bottom bracket problems. This is a good rack for occasional use, but when used 3-5 times a week like I do it is too hard on the bike. Yakima should take a look at Thule's rack. You have to use a Yakima LockCore.
Does the coin instead of the vertical wobble bolt work? In the back, the bolt head slides freely inside a grooved track under the wheel tray. I am thinking of either the Thule - Sportworks Transport T2 or the Yakima Hookup which appears to be a copy of the Sportworks. Some people said they had to trim this to make it fit with spare, but it sounds like the majority haven't had any problems. I have since replaced it with the Yakima Copperhead which seems much easier on the bike. I gave the Anklebiter to I guy I work with to try before buying it from me. If properly adjusted, which takes less than 60 seconds, they have securely held my road bike, touring bike, mountain bike, wife's cruiser - I've even had a childrens bike up there - never any problem.