Generally, once the seal is broken, the case halves easily come apart. You could easily end up worse off then you are now. Remove the trans cooler lines: a 19mm flarenut end wrench will do the one on the side of the trans. The auto flywheel bolts are shorter than the manual flywheel bolts so go ahead and get new ones. More aggresive gear ratios Build it on the side and then get a complete clutch kit and replace it all in one shot. Tighten the nuts, not the bolts, so the metal sleeves do not twist in the rubber when tightening.
When the clutch is pushed in, it goes silent. A 220 would be less reliable. I don't think I will have a problem. I seem to remember hearing that the 265 is a better tranny, but I don't have any first hand experience. If I was to rebuild to just a bare minimum I would replace the Input, Cluster, and Output Shaft bearings, all the synchros, check all shift fork operations and and repair as neccassary.
How much would a standard gearbox go for these days to bolt up to a m50. I agree that a Metric Mechanic or Jim Blanton massaged unit would certainly alleviate any angst as far as trans issues in the future. If using an 88 cross member, it will be necessary to slot the holes approx. If you have a trusted local independent mechanic, he might be willing to take it on. Disconnect the dipstick tube at the pan and remove the bolted bracket at the firewall and remove the tube. The whine is from the countershaft the bearings are shot. The 265 is in four sections: tail casting, intermediate casting, main case and bellhousing.
I am sure I read this somewhere, has anyone heard of making it happen? Can get a m44 later generation m42 with 150hp for a 1k + everything needed to bolt in and use my original gearbox. I got my getrag240 from a 320i and it's now sitting behind a m20 stroker. Whilst you get a bit more acceleration from the close ratios, I would argue you lose time due to the shifting. I had seen in previous posts that billo had posted some schematics but wasn't sure they applied to my application. It fits into a thru-hole in the back of the bell housing and can be driven out from the back side with a blunt punch.
The shifts seems to go all they way in, you can even feel the syncho engage. A hot one could do 270. Contact Jim Blanton at Blanton Transmissions in Kansas City. The old bolts on mine were grade 8. If it's out of a 325i or 320i e30.
Most of the bolts from the automatic will be too short for the manual trans, replace as required. I believe an original equipment manual trans car will have Torx head bolts all around and the sockets will be small enough to fit in between the fins without modification. M50 with a 240 is fine, dont waste your time with 150hp at the crank when you can have 190hp with little more effort. I am using a 240 with my 2. Ended up going with a e36 6 speed and has no trouble since. I made this piece of bar stock to support the trans a long time ago when I replaced the auto rear output flange seal, and it bolts into the existing cross member holes on the chassis rails and makes it alot easier to maneuver under the car without having to have a jack in the way.
Anyone knows the ratios for the E36 Getrag 220 from the E36 318is? You can use the trans from an earlier E12, but then you still must acquire the bellhousing from a later Montronic equipped car. As it turns out, the interior of the bell housing of my donor trans has ding marks which I gather is a sign of a past failure of one of the former dual mass components. I someone has info that contradicts this feel free to comment. There are small arrows molded into the rubber. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
I seem to remember hearing that the 265 is a better tranny, but I don't have any first hand experience. Most of the required parts can come from either an 88 or 89 e32 735i or an 89 or newer e34 535i. I'll like to get one for my E36 320 too since my 5th gear is acting weird intermitently. Note: One of the flywheel and crankshaft holes is slightly larger in diameter than the rest and has a metal sleeve which sticks part way out of the end of the crank, or the sleeve might come out with the auto flex-disk, be sure not to loose it!. Between 2nd and 3rd the 240 is shorter. If you're going to succeed at doing a swap on your own, these are details best left up to you for getting thoroughly familiar with the components and tasks at hand.
The thing to look for in any case is whether the gearbox has the mechanical speedodrive pinions at the bottom rear. What is the difference bwtween the Getrag 260 and 265? What is the difference bwtween the Getrag 260 and 265? I believe someone on this board has adapted a speedo drive to a driveless box though I don't recall who did at the moment. Both have the same ratios in 4th and 5th And I thought the 240 got tilted too? They were used on 89 e34 525i manuals and 91-93 M5's and are not plentiful. He said that 260's hold up better but he didn't like the short first 3 gears. The new pressure plate had obvious signs that it was factory balanced, but the assembly was off by 8 grams. My 260 whines like an old dump truck tranny, so I know it'll need replacement at some point.
The starter relay will need to be replaced with a jumper wire from terminal 30 to terminal 87, the terminals are numbered on the underside of the existing relay. Cut away a portion of the sound deadening material. Another thing to check is the plastic yes, plastic pivot ball on the clutch throwout arm in the bell housing. An e34 535i manual will have a 3. The numbers do loosely correlate to torque handling and there are numerous conversions using a gearbox that was designed for a low powered 2 litre hooked up to larger engines. Generaly speaking you can tell which component is bad based on location of noise.