Outboard Motors - Johnson Evinrude service manual This manual covers service information on 9. A Red-Necked repair of these loose bearings is to zap it in a Microwave and slightly open it up. Dirty or restricted fuel filter. Carburetor, Late : Late 1987 and newer production carburetors up thru 1992 were completely different having the bottom fuel bowl and top made of heavy black plastic type material. There have been changes in this flow over the years. If you try to put anything longer in, they will reach too far inward, hit the top of the piston.
Check fuel lines and filter s for restricted flow. This was supposedly for revised water circulation which was supposed to keep both cylinders more even in temperature and reduced plug fouling especially on the bottom plug. A crack in the fuel pick-up outlet tube located in fuel tank. If the tight one, you are in luck, place the new spring in the old housing, then take off the clip. For those of you who think you are a good machinist and can bore out the throat of a 9. In 1987 they added the lanyard type kill button on the end of the twist throttle handle These created a problem if you used the extended universal joint tiller handle, as you could not reach the kill button with this extended handle installed.
Then there was an issue with the Delrin magneto ring; John explained the later brown colored one was a tighter fit to make the magneto plate have less slop, especially at idle, so the pull of the flywheel magnets against the coil would not cause the timing to jump around as much and give smoother low speed running. Idle mixture set too lean. Now you can look down thru the bolt hole and align the hole in the housing to the threaded hole in the base. The reason this motor was originally called a 9. The bore for this outboard is 2. Main nozzle or idle nozzle air bleed holes plugged. Customer Service Johnson Evinrude Outboard Motor Service Manuals - The Marine Service Manuals has made every effort to make your Johnson Evinrude Outboard Motor Service manual shopping experience as easy as possible.
Restricted fuel flow to carburetor. It is suspected that possibly they want the design to run for long enough to really perfect a better part? We are here to help! But not all of Evinrude's pre 1979 models were not that simple. If, it is found that the anti-siphon valve is the cause of the problem, either 1 replace the anti-siphon valve or 2 replace it with a solenoid-operated fuel shutoff valve. Breather box is removed for clarity. Evinrude in those years used a different 5 digit model code, as 10424 S. Exploded view of 1979 manual starter unit The manual starter spool assembly was changed after 1978.
In 1991 the handle was changed slightly and the kill button was moved to about mid handle left side. The redesigned head has little dams around the spark plug to try to prevent that. Try it if you want and let me know how it comes out, but be prepared to buy another carburetor as your backup plan. These wires go into a black rubber coupler that has 3 prongs in it. However it has been found that when threading this Nylon coupler on, rotate it slightly upward on the outside, otherwise it can become uncoupled if situation s are slightly wrong when you move the throttle to slow position.
When they looked him up, he retrieved a propane torch and heated the spark plugs. This is the carburetor idle adjustment knob. This is just held in place by friction at the grommet and on the nozzle from the hose. It is my experience however that the 15 hp does not idle down as slow or as smooth as the 9. This is good in that you most likely will not experience the motor jumping out of gear because of worn clutch dogs if the linkage adjustment is not properly set.
Connect fuel line to motor. Anti-Siphon valve restricting fuel flow. The big difference in the performance between the 9. And many people, even marine mechanics, do not see enough of these to be really sure which is which unless they see them side by side. I personally clean, bead-blast them, check the gap and put them back in. Sometimes, you need to swap plugs to get them to line up at the right point when tightening, it's a trial and error thing.
On this recoil starter, the rope pulley is in two pieces held together with screws. Or if your motor is the post 87 with the plastic topped carburetor, it may have a plastic sleeve on the cam roller. You will find it harder to get the manual starter out and back into position if you are working on an electric start version, as this ring gear makes for a closer fit. This is the charging wire to the battery. This new head was changed for better fuel burning to help eliminate fouled plugs found on the 74-76 motors when trolling.
A pinched or restricted fuel line. Or swap the carburetor roller arm assembly off your 9. If your engine overheats and this overboard water indicator is not spraying, shut it off, look for debris plugging the intake screens on the sides of the lower unit. Obviously if you are converting a late motor, say a 1990, the reed shims and round exhaust should already be on your motor. Others the coil will not be wound as tight as needed to be placed inside the cup unit. Some home mechanics who frequent i-Boats have come up with another twist to help these pre 1977 motors out.
They come in just an hour meter or a combo of hour meter and tachometer. Modified Pee Hole Readily Removable Tube Nozzle Replacing the Thermostat : It is advisable if you are having water pumping problems to also take a look at the thermostat, since if the water pump impeller had gotten any of the vanes worn off, this is a location that this chewed up vane rubber material can collect and plug things up. Tighten all screws evenly and securely. Nothing is worse than having a boat that doesn't go in the water. Clean the old gasket and use a good gasoline resistant sealant on the new gaskets, reassemble in reverse order. A dirty or restricted fuel filter.