The amp has high level input plugs built in. Make sure your speaker's impedance in ohms matches the output impedance of your amplifier. A line output converter offers some advantages, like the ability to sum and control signals of a multi-channel factory system. I have power and everything to my new amp but it's not making any difference in the sound quality of my system. If you bought your amplifier at Crutchfield, you could call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system.
I always like to have a plan ahead of time before I spend that kind of money. Especially if you are going to run the amps to some subs. So that I don't wanted to replace head unit. If you purchase an amp without speaker level inputs, you will need to also purchase a line-out converter to alter the output of your stock head unit to a low-level signal to be accepted into standard speaker connections on your amp. I am about to replace the door speakers and amplify them. I have a 2001 Subaru forester.
Can you point me in the right direction of what I would need to get this done? I have everything wired up, however the rear door speakers do not work. Can I add a better amp , leaving the factory wiring alone? I had it all installed by car toys. It's when you have more power than that - 85 or 100 watts say - is when you'd benefit with thicker wire. W związku z tym chcemy przekazać Ci kilka informacji o tym, w jaki sposób przetwarzamy Twoje dane osobowe i w jaki sposób je chronimy. If it sounds fine to you, keep it where its at and you just saved yourself a couple hundred bucks. Your responses have me so excited about installing some subs in my car that I can't wait. Then you connect the amp's outputs to the speaker wires of the vehicle harness via a 9-conductor speaker cable.
Thinking the speakers may be blown, I bought new ones and installed them. The vehicle harness will distribute the amplified signals to the four speakers. Is there anything else I can use for a remote wire? Although the car radio wirings might defer depending on the make of your car, it is relatively simple to connect the speaker wires from the head unit accordingly. Line output converters Another popular way to connect an amplifier to a factory radio is to use something called a. Remove the radio to get to the factory wiring Behind the factory radio, you can access all of the speaker wires in one place. Your amplifier has left and right subwoofer inputs that are summed, blended together electronically, in the amp's input circuitry.
Then you can run new speaker wire to each speaker and disconnect the factory wiring there, or run 9-conductor from your aftermarket amplifier's outputs to the factory speaker wiring at the factory amp's output harness. If you cut a wire, it should get capped off with a crimp or heat shrink so no short circuits can occur. They can cause noticeable power loss when higher wattages try to get through. Just from the way your experience level sounds, if you do get the amp hooked up, you will never get it adjusted properly to even sound good. That 5th channel has a sub positive and sub negative input. But amplifiers of 75-watts or less aren't really affected by this, so running their outputs through factory wiring remains a practical and convenient solution. However they don't sound any much louder than when my stock was amplified before the bass starts to sound muddy and distorted.
I suppose one could fashion a system that could switch between an amplifier's output and a receiver's powered output, but I see no benefits to such an arrangement. I don't mind the extra work of running wires if that's the case. Adding an amp will make your audio system sound louder and clearer by allowing you to send more power to your factory speakers or sub-woofers. The thickness of the speaker wires going to your tweeters will have nothing to do with their volume and tone. Working in a music store in Austin, Texas, I spent a few years manufacturing, installing, repairing, and operating sound systems. Although you've described how your amps' power and input signals are run, it's not at all clear how the amp's outputs are wired to your speakers. I can't tell why yours sound muddy, but I doubt it has anything to do with the wiring.
This allows you to run a high level speaker signal from your stock stereo's powered head unit without any additional wiring. Base radio promises x-j than the battery but can i will need help hooking up a relatively common problem is usually, and ground. Connect the wires Once you've identified each of the eight speaker wires, cut each one. You shouldn't ever have to cut factory wiring. So really I'm cutting the harness in half and adding a lc7i and an amp. Yeah as far as the rmeote wire goes, the fuse box next to the battery in the trunk has a fuse you can tap into. Almost every aftermarket head unit has a remote turn on wire.
There is a turn on from just about any factory and aftermarket unit. A 9-conductor cable carries four amplified channels from the amp's output to the vehicle's harness, which connects to the speakers via the factory wiring. This would work well in your situation. If you bought your gear from Crutchfield, you can call Tech Support for free help troubleshooting your system. Please let me know what would be the easiest way to make this happen.
Im trying to now and; a remote amplifier to worry, and amplifier when your '14 up the stock. Each amp manufacturer does it differently - some use interconnecting cables, some use switches. For some people, it sounds just fine and thats all they need. My question is do I need to run new thicker gauge speaker wire or will I be fine with the factory wires? Delivery time for standard shipping to Alaska, Hawaii, and Puerto Rico is 3 business days. So I run the 8 wires from the factory harness to the amps high level input. It sounds like you should call Crutchfield and talk to an Advisor who'll have all the information necessary to help you get great sound in your car with some aftermarket speakers.