I ask because I have the heads off and it is in a state of tear down presently. Not the two or three armed pulley puller, but a harmonic balancer pulley puller-the pullers with jaws that hook around the outside of pulley can ruin a harmonic balancer. I ohmed the 3 front injectors and 3 front coils. Un clip all of the wires. The torque specs for the spark plugs are 14-22 ft-lbs.
There are some picture of it at dallinwood. Because there are so many bolts and fasteners involved, store and label the retainers from components separately in muffin pans, jars or coffee cans. If you cannot confirm an open or short in the specified wire s as they pass through the indicated harness bend with the continuity check, this bulletin does not apply. Might be codes from yesterday, or two weeks ago. The balancer puller will take it right off the crankshaft, no problem.
You have to remove the center bolt, then use a harmonic balancer puller. You need to pry up plastic panel that sheaths the shifter. Anyone have any good ideas of how to make a good plug for the end of the tranny so I don't lose all the fluid pulling it out? A puller may be required to remove the damper from the shaft. Coat the threads of each spark plug with anti-seize and insert it back in. The engine and transaxle are removed from under the vehicle. Remove the air cleaner, air box, and intake hose. Did you use cinder blocks or just jackstands? Then the crankshaft position sensor is also just connected by a single bolt.
What about the harness and connector to the coil pack, ignition controller part of the computer usually , injector driver also inside the computer etc? After some deliberation, I agree with you guys. Fold back the rubber boot on the starter solenoid, and use a ratchet to remove the nuts that hold the wires to the starter solenoid. If you had actually listed all of the codes, it might be easier to see a picture forming. Brake fluid and power steering fluid are usually rarely required to be changed, but you should keep a check on your anti-freeze and transmission fluid every 2-3 oil changes and also keep them changed according the recommended service intervals by the manufacturer. You can now reinstall the air intake. All of that adds up to running rich - so the codes probably say about the same thing.
Also do that compression test. That often starts with diagnostic codes. Said I would have no tranny clearance problems. When removing the engine, make sure that any lifting devices are properly attached to the engine. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
It will take a little forceful wiggling to get it apart as you push on the clip of the wiring harness. Tighten the through-bolts to 12-21 ft. Tighten the through-bolts to 27-55 ft. Have you changed the timing chain and water pump withoutremoving the engine completely? From there you can access the screws on the side of the radio unit. To remove the valve, first you have to get a bunch of hoses and stuff out of the way to expose it, then disconnect the hoses and electrical connector from the valve, then disconnect the metal pipe connected to the base, then remove the two nuts on the two bolts. Now i had to play the mix and match game.
But having codes would help. So changing it is shooting the messenger. After doing this, you will shut the vehicle back off and check your oil level. Both codes say that the computer see nothing from those sensors. In this case I purchased Mobil 1 Extended Performance, which is rated for 15,000 or 1yr change intervals.
I've also seen people run a strap under each of the intake mani runners and lift that way. I've done it multiple times, its a pain but it can be done. Install the new starter, install its bolts and torque them to 27 foot-pounds each. Car now only is showing P0306. I see a cheap one from Harbor Freight but am a little nervous aboutthat one.
The car has 262K miles on it…When I got it, there was no maintenance records, nothing. The p1320 is Ignition signal fault-primary primary ignition signal fault this being on the module side of the ignition. All of the incident possibilities are circuits contained in wiring that pass through the bend in the engine control harness. This is done by slowly and carefully pulling the driver side of the housing toward the front of the car, so it twists and rotates on the passenger side. If equipped, disconnect the slave cylinder from the transaxle.
Remove the front and rear engine mounts. Use a pair of pliers to loosen and slide back the clamps on the two large hoses going to the center of the air duct, then loosen the hose clamp connecting the duct to the engine's throttle body. After doing this, firmly apply your parking brake, then get out and check the vehicle. Something is wrong somewhere that you can't see or resolve by throwing working parts at it. One of the things this is doing is killing the signal from your upstream O2 sensors P0154, P0134. Next we will refill the crankcase with the new oil, first you will open the hood by locating your hood release inside the vehicle.