A loss of power may also be attributed to faulty oxygen sensors or engine problems, but often it is the fuel pump, especially in older cars. I'll be taking it into the dealership at some point since it's all under warranty, but I thought I'd ask on here in the mean time. This happens, physically, because the pressure in the rail is higher than the pressure in the manifold, into which the fuel is spraying. No other notable play in any of the other bearings, but I reckon one them must also be on the way out - frustrating! There wasn't any play in the bearing either. They are potentiometers that are wired in series. It will eventually go away after the car has been driven or it's warm outside. Should I be concerned about this or is this normal? Mounting on rubber isolators can help external.
My theory is if you can hear the fuel pump, your exhaust is too quiet. Yes mate, its was just a wheel bearing! Be sure to plug the line on the engine side. Mine started getting louder could hear it on the freeway over a couple of weeks then started having fuel starvation problems stumbling under full power. This problem must be fixed by removing the blockage which should be performed by a mechanic. Oh, and to Inf's comment about the mechanical pump ticking after shutting down the engine when warm, mine does that as well. If you scroll down about half way on that first page, you'll see the pics of what it was, and another link to how to remove the fuel pump assembly. I tried trouble shooting it and prolonged idle time made it go away, despite blipping the throttle multiple times.
I talked to Holley, they said send it them and it could take up to a month to figure out. Have you tried cornering at speed and loading up the diff to see if the tone of the noise changes or if it stops altogether? When in idle i hear nothing. After reading about this on this website I noticed that mine was buzzing. I couldn't get the knock to go away. With the stethoscope i listened to alot of different places on the engine.
As the manifold pressure raises, the fuel pressure must follow it in a 1:1 ratio, and the same is true when the manifold pressure is under vacuum. Voltage is passing through both the sensors in a series, their resistance lowers the voltage changing the display on your fuel level gauge indicator. If the car was truely out of fuel and it took 18-19 gallons to fill it back up, than you have a bad level sensor. With a vehicle that has a fuel injector, the fuel pump is located inside of the tank. Luckily, I had just installed an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, so this was a non-issue. I knew going into that installation that the Walbro pump drew more amperage than the stock pump. While installing, I also took the time to remove the factory fuel damper.
Mine has that sort of whine, and I don't know what it is. I asked whether it made a difference in purchasing either a right or left and was told they were the same. They wear out at the pivot point of the pump arm, and start knocking. What I've ruled out so far: Wheel bearing I had it replaced with a new hub Diff oil, replaced with nissan oem fluids Gearbox oil, also replaced with nissan oem oil and molyslip Changed the wheel for a spare wheel off another set Replaced the discs and pads with Stoptech Tyres are fairly new with out 1000 miles on them. The trouble with noises in cars, is its very hard to pinpoint them, I have seen so many different causes of a noise that the driver is certain its only coming from the rear of the car, if you then ask the passenger he will say its coming from somewhere completely different, so yes its completely possible. I have a knock from my engine that sounded like it would knock with every revolution of the cam. If not, there may be another problem.
Tomei, of course, recommends using their. The fuel pressure should follow the vacuum down, and where it rests will just depend on how much vacuum your engine is drawing on the manifold. Engine Sputtering One of the surest indicators of a faulty fuel pump is a sputtering engine — typically at high speeds. Should I take it back to the dealer or what. Sound is definitely coming from the back.
Feels all around me cant tell where it is coming from. In one of my you saw how I installed a Walbro 485. So the easiest way to set the fuel pressure regulator is to disconnect the vacuum line going to it. If the engine is not started and the ignition is left on the computer will cut power to the pump. I modified my stock tank with a Wahlbro in-tank pump mainly because I was concerned with a noisy fuel pump if mounted outside the tank. There is a good chance your alignment is out, especially if you've not checked it since '04. Is the theme song playing in your head? Ah perhaps - I know I had a similar issue in the past not on the Zed and I used that to pin point it.
They are different aren't they? Posted on Jul 11, 2009 There is no fuel cut off switch. Diffs are supposed to be fairly bulletproof aren't they? In these circumstances, the car will feel like it is unable to go or maintain the intended amount of power. The filter is a tall silver canaster that sometimes is wraped in insulation. However, it occurs at a random, consistent speed. Never did get the engine started.
Ours just failed and replacing it resulted in a three second or less zipping noise, followed by a lengthy shut off period. A valve within the fuel pump may not be opening, causing more fuel than necessary to pour into the engine system. Car Will Not Start Another more serious symptom of an issue with the fuel pump is a no-start condition. Was reading in the 'E Class Bible' that it could also be a clogged screen in the fuel distributer or in the fuel tank. I'm not sure but he said until the manufacturer issues a problem with it, they cannot find out what it is.