It has happened about 5 times or so. Drives good for about 8 month all of a sudden one day won't turn over towed to shop found out the cam an crank sensor won't sync up, so we wiggle the cam sensor car cranks up so mechanic put a phat oring around the sensor an stuffs it in the whole very tight so we move sensor around till car starts an let go of sensor done deal car cranks all the time we just leave the sensor screw out fat oring holds in place but after a while oring need to be replaced cause it becomes thin from heat so I replaced it a few times then got to thinking what kind of mechanic would use this as a solution an charge me 125. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic where the contact was informed that the crank position sensor and the electronic control needed to be replaced. Roy He just replaced the parts that's all it's been about a year now I would like to reiterate that the valve covers were off and there were no oil pressure when that main tensioner was clicking I had someone turn the key and it was clicking it tighten the chain up eventually because the chain was very loose. Build date is 4-08 and oil has been changed recently at dealer so it should be ok. But, it has almost happened many more times.
I hate to say it. I paid if off this year. The technician replaced the battery and was not able to replicate or diagnosed the failure. Unfortunately no one was able to find or to fix the problem. All spark plugs have been changed as well as the cranks sensor. Its not seeing a valid key,and it is starting with the remote.
Also this is the third new Mopar cam sensor I checked the wiring and the ground on the sensor wire all good. I will be driving and all of a sudden can't see my speedometer or anything. On most vehicles it is easy to located and you do not remove any parts but the Dodge and the Chrysler Sebring are build in such a way that you will need to support the engine and remove the front bottom engine mount so you can reach the crankshaft position sensor. The vehicle was towed to the dealer several times where unknown repairs were made but the failure recurred. Connect crankshaft position sensor electrical connector to the wiring harness connector.
The contact stated that after making several attempts, the vehicle restarted. Roy Can I ask what you think would be interfering with the cam sensor syncing with the crank sensor It won't sync when screwed down do u think it's because of the link count or the main tensioner thanks cause everything else looks good an to replace main tensioner do u have to take the whole motor apart like replacing a timing chain thanks I finally got the primary tensioner out but when it came out the chain stiffened up on that side so the Slack is basically on the right side of the car my mechanic said that I would have to take the whole timing chain cover off and we said the chain is this true is there any other way that I can get the slack back over by the tensioner. The old thread is here: Thanks for the info. I did see that post previously. The manufacturer was notified of the failure. The new crank sensor will come with a piece of gasket paper on the end of the sensor.
The tensioner should not make any noise at rest. If you replace the chip it has to be progammed or it won't work, is the theft light lit on the instrument cluster? The failure recurred multiple times. If this is the problem your having your best bet is take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop or have an automotive locksmith check it out. Was told it has to be taken to dealer authorized shop for electrical box repair after taking car to three different shops who all said they could not find the issue. What kind of warranty did you receive on the motor? The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, who diagnosed that the alternator needed to be replaced.
The approximate failure mileage was 170,000. The vehicle became difficult to control when it revved. Remove crankshaft position sensor retaining bolt Crankshaft Position Sensor Pull crankshaft position sensor straight up out of the transaxle housing. The vehicle was repaired and the manufacturer was notified. Replaced both sensors still no start. Dealer was never able to repair.
We knew the main was bad in the beginning but now you have to start all over again with the timing. Tried replacing alternator and still happened. The 'check engine' light is always on and blinks while in drive. The contact indicated that the air bag and various sensors illuminated on the instrument panel. I explained the problem to the serviceman and I was told that I need sway bars now.
The sensor should be replaced to start with. Your going to have to take the Air Filter and the air manifold that runs to the engine off. Spatial orientation is not my strong point so please bear with me. Your mechanic should have told you how to install the main tensioner. I also say that this has been wearing from the previous owner and I am not at fault, nor should I have to pay for the work.
I saw a sensor on the side of the block facing the radiator. My car would start to loose power, a bit of a engine hiccup, and then as I approach a stop or red light, the car would stall completely. It's seems like with a crow bar lifting up on the tensioner guide I might b able to get the main tensioner in with a little force I just wanted to no as long as I don't mess with the timing I can pop one tensioner out an pop the one in an crank car after everything is assembled meaning I don't have to rest the timing to replace the main tensioner? Very painstaking job that requires patience and precision. The vehicle was repaired however, the failure recurred. Almost dead-center in the back of the engine. This is when the code p0339 is set. Posted on Mar 10, 2012 i have the 2.